Well I do know somebody who got seriously injured from skydiving, that’s why I thought of it as an example, but yea, surfing in these conditions is asking for trouble, I agree.
remember a few years ago in a Torquay, there was a pretty bad storm coinciding with a high tide, the waves where crashing over the wall. Some kids, decided it was fun to play chicken with the waves, one got caught and just escaped, didn’t learn the lesson though and carried on.
some people are just a bit mad