Fujifilm S 5600 Digital Camera help!

[Neilsouth]

Fujifilm S 5600 Digital Camera

What's the best setting to use for taking good cloud photography dark skies or storm clouds on a sunny day?

It's a camera im borrowing

[Osbourne One-Nil]

My dad's got the model up from that and I know he auto-brackets a lot to make sure he gets a good shot. You could try that?

[Neilsouth]

My dad's got the model up from that and I know he auto-brackets a lot to make sure he gets a good shot. You could try that?

Auto brackets?

Thanks for the reply

[John Cox]

Hi Neilsouth,

What OON means is to take say three photos with different exposures, one is what the camera thinks is the correct exposure, it then takes a second and third photo one that underexposes by say 1 F stop and one that overexposes by 1 F stop.

I have not got this camera but the best thing to do is look at the manual that came with it and it will show you how do this setting.

If you are new to photography and do not know what I mean by the above there is another easier way to do this with most digital cameras.

Aim the camera at the area you want to take and take a photo.

For the second photo aim the camera at say the sky only (brightest area) and half depress the shutter button. Without taking your finger off the button, recompose the camera to the area you want to take and fully depress the shutter button. This will cause an underexposure and will probably show the horizon or earth areas darker and the clouds just right.

Do the same again but this time point the camera at more of the earth part of the photo, half depress the shutter and then (without moving your finger and keeping the shutter half depressed) recompose your area to where you want to take the photo and then fully depress the shutter. This will cause an overexposure and will probably have the clouds too bright or overexposed but the land area will be exposed correctly.

Unfortunately with digital photography the dynamic range of the sensor is not great, in other words it is hard to get everything correctly exposed if the area you are photographing had both very bright and very dark areas. Compromise is called for.

I hope this helps.

[Neilsouth]

I hope this helps.

Brill , thankyou

[Neilsouth]

[John Cox]

Perfect exposure neilsouth, well done and a great photo,

What you can then do if you want is to use some photo editors to enhance certain features.

I have taken your photo (I hope you dont mind) and enhanced it a bit to try and bring out some of the cloud features.

Of course this is a very subjective matter and all that matters is which effect pleases you.

[Neilsouth]

Dont mind at all , looking very good...... I have also learned how to use MF and zoomed photography today

Will try more settings on the cloud scapes today with photo software

[John Cox]

Hi neilsouth,

You dont need any lessons from me.

That plant shot is superb.

[Neilsouth]

Hi neilsouth,

You dont need any lessons from me.

That plant shot is superb.

wow thanks

Edited July 9, 2007 by neilsouth

[Delta76]

Hi guys i'm much in the same boat here , just bought a Fuji finepix 9600 and am having great difficulty pphotographing clouds and this is probably the main reason i bought the camera . Some of the cloud edges dont seem very sharp .

Edited July 9, 2007 by Delta76

[Osbourne One-Nil]

That's the one my dad's got...can't say I've ever noticed a problem with his. Can you post an example?

[Neilsouth]

Some of the cloud edges dont seem very sharp .

Do this , upload the pictures to your computer..

Download Irfanview

Install that and edit the pictures for ( SHARPEN )

You can even use effect's browser

[Delta76]

That's the one my dad's got...can't say I've ever noticed a problem with his. Can you post an example?

i'll try to post a piccy and see what you reckon .

Edited July 9, 2007 by Delta76

[Delta76]

Took this one a few weeks ago and thought it may have been a little sharper , am i doing things wrong ?

[John Cox]

Hi delta76,

I think I can see what your problem is.

I have had a look at your exif data from the photo and you have your exposure metering type set to "Spot" rather than evalutive or the like. By using spot your exposure value is set at the very centre of your focusing screen and should only be used for special situations. Aslo your shutter speed is 1/900 and aperature is F8 which is I think is an underexpose for this photo. Your "spot" metering has probably just worked on the white fluffy part of the photo which would give you an underexposure like you have in this photo.

Change this setting and try again and I think this should improve things greatly.

Edited July 9, 2007 by John Cox

[Delta76]

Hi delta76,

I think I can see what your problem is.

I have had a look at your exif data from the photo and you have your exposure metering type set to "Spot" rather than evalutive or the like. By using spot your exposure value is set at the very centre of your focusing screen and should only be used for special situations. Aslo your shutter speed is 1/900 and aperature is F8 which is I think is an underexpose for this photo. Your "spot" metering has probably just worked on the white fluffy part of the photo which would give you an underexposure like you have in this photo.

Change this setting and try again and I think this should improve things greatly.

Thank you or replying to the above the photo was taken in the camera's auto mode . Referring to the instructions i have : multi , Spot , and Average metering settings on the camera are you saying that i should have taken the picture in the average mode ?

[John Cox]

Thank you or replying to the above the photo was taken in the camera's auto mode . Referring to the instructions i have : multi , Spot , and Average metering settings on the camera are you saying that i should have taken the picture in the average mode ?

Hi delta76,

"Multi" take a exposure reading portion from different parts of the picture and averages them all out.

"Average" i am not to sure of in this camera but would be something similar to multi. It might be like "centre weighted" which takes the main reading from the inner 1/3 of the framed photo and emphasises the exposure there but does take somewhat into account the rest of the frame.

I would stick with multi.

Spot would be used if say taking a picture of a black cat in an otherwise bright scene. You would focus on the cat and it would come out properly exposed and the rest of the picture would be overexposed or "blown" but you get your cat correctly exposed as that was your intention.

I do not know this camera but usually there are two types of auto mode. I have had some where one icon has a green indicator and it would be fully auto and set up everything including exposure modes, speed, aperature etc. It would be foolproof. Then there is a Program mode that will automatically set your shutter speed and Aperature value but will let you change other settings like exposure mode, sharpness etc.

I did notice that your sharpness was set to +3 so the camera must have been set to program mode and not fully automatic. Thats what I think but cannot be 100% certain without handling the camera.

I hope this helps.

[Delta76]

Hi delta76,

"Multi" take a exposure reading portion from different parts of the picture and averages them all out.

"Average" i am not to sure of in this camera but would be something similar to multi. It might be like "centre weighted" which takes the main reading from the inner 1/3 of the framed photo and emphasises the exposure there but does take somewhat into account the rest of the frame.

I would stick with multi.

Spot would be used if say taking a picture of a black cat in an otherwise bright scene. You would focus on the cat and it would come out properly exposed and the rest of the picture would be overexposed or "blown" but you get your cat correctly exposed as that was your intention.

I do not know this camera but usually there are two types of auto mode. I have had some where one icon has a green indicator and it would be fully auto and set up everything including exposure modes, speed, aperature etc. It would be foolproof. Then there is a Program mode that will automatically set your shutter speed and Aperature value but will let you change other settings like exposure mode, sharpness etc.

I did notice that your sharpness was set to +3 so the camera must have been set to program mode and not fully automatic. Thats what I think but cannot be 100% certain without handling the camera.

I hope this helps.

Hi again John all these points are helping big style and hopefully i will get the hang of things will post again whwn i'm satisfied i may be getting the hang of things ....thank you.